Tuesday 29th Sep
Another date with the priest for family history research. He has been a lot more cooperative than the last incumbent and we had a good run today from 10am to 4pm... I had to leave at 2.30pm for hair appointment...(can't be doing without a root touchup in the land of chic!) He probably thought we were mad working straight through - that is not the Italian way in Italy - we certainly heard him having his lunch and then retiring upstairs for his siesta!
A Canadian has booked into our Arsiero Hotel, left Italy (Piovene - over the road from Caltrano) as an 18 year old in 1966. Funny guy, a strangled Canadian accent with old country overtones, also quite a strange phrasing technique. We were enjoying our predinner campari when he stopped for a chat.
He was talking about his wife - back home in Canada - and described her as a plain sort of woman... and then he looked at Frank and said...like your wife.......me!!! Of course Frank barely kept from chortling, the bugger.
Blog is record of travels to eclectic choice of northern Italian destinations - as determined by "he who must be obeyed" I'm just along for the ride!
Wednesday, 30 September 2015
Tuesday, 29 September 2015
Formaggio
Monday 28th Sep
I am exhausted, we went on a long hike to the peak of Cima Vezzena, 1400 metres to 2000 metres, a roundtrip of 4 hours. Very peaceful in the forest, saw no others at all except when I was taking a whizz to the side of the track. Murphy's law!
On the way home called into the Farmacia for some quickease, after a good look around the shop, I tried to explain to the chemist, indigestion... and he started to talk to me in french, (obviously didn't recognise my attempt at Italian) -2 very confused individuals. He finally chose a box out of one his many drawers - for those not in the know - Italian chemists seem to keep all the medications in a wall of little builtin drawers - Dio bon, it's like a different country!
I'm hoping like crazy this stuff works as I have been experiencing some discomfort with the rich food... for example dinner tonight was fried cheese - 2 pieces of cheese with pancetta in between with pepperonata - a Trentino dish. Ok, I chose it I could have had a salad!
About this town of Arsiero, population 3500 approx. When we have our predinner drink in the bar, all the workers call in for a drink on the way home. Now, instead of a beer as in Australia, the Italian worker relaxes with a campari or a prosecco. Very strange to see burly men in their work clothes (not suit and tie!) knocking back these girly drinks.
Arsiero has been saved economically by the Forgerossi factory getting a longterm contract to manufacture the titanium components for Rolls Royce jet engines... yes here in the middle of nowhere!
I am exhausted, we went on a long hike to the peak of Cima Vezzena, 1400 metres to 2000 metres, a roundtrip of 4 hours. Very peaceful in the forest, saw no others at all except when I was taking a whizz to the side of the track. Murphy's law!
On the way home called into the Farmacia for some quickease, after a good look around the shop, I tried to explain to the chemist, indigestion... and he started to talk to me in french, (obviously didn't recognise my attempt at Italian) -2 very confused individuals. He finally chose a box out of one his many drawers - for those not in the know - Italian chemists seem to keep all the medications in a wall of little builtin drawers - Dio bon, it's like a different country!
I'm hoping like crazy this stuff works as I have been experiencing some discomfort with the rich food... for example dinner tonight was fried cheese - 2 pieces of cheese with pancetta in between with pepperonata - a Trentino dish. Ok, I chose it I could have had a salad!
About this town of Arsiero, population 3500 approx. When we have our predinner drink in the bar, all the workers call in for a drink on the way home. Now, instead of a beer as in Australia, the Italian worker relaxes with a campari or a prosecco. Very strange to see burly men in their work clothes (not suit and tie!) knocking back these girly drinks.
Arsiero has been saved economically by the Forgerossi factory getting a longterm contract to manufacture the titanium components for Rolls Royce jet engines... yes here in the middle of nowhere!
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| View from our Arsiero Hotel terrace |
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| Asiago church |
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| Herdsman moving cows in altopiano near Asiago, cow bells deafening |
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| Frank and I in front of WW1 Austrohungarian fort |
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| Funghi on a dead tree in the forest, saw some huge ones |
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| View to valley towns from Cima Vezzana |
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| House built by Frank's great grandfather in Caltrano, |
Monday, 28 September 2015
Vegemite
Sunday 27th Sep
Set off in Treviso direction this morning - destination Villa Emo in Fanzola, another country house designed by Palladio with frescoes by Zelotti - presumably with the technique much used in Palladio houses of having the artists paint onto the wet plaster so the painting is incorporated in the wall surface, hence the brightness of the frescoes today.
Anyway these frescoes were all about the agricultural life in a mythological way as this area being flat land was a big crop growing area (and still is)
Under the loggia of the house, vintage dealers from far and wide had stalls selling all sorts of things, for eg one dealer had 1960's and 70's sunglasses, others had old furs, vintage designer handbags etc. Needless to say Frank couldn't get me out of there fast enough, but I saw enough to workout that old crap in Italy costs more than old crap in Australia!
From there we called on an old school friend of Frank's who lives 10k from Treviso. He was born in Australia and the family moved back to Italy in 1968. In the usual Italian way he (and his family) and his brother and his share the house, one family ground floor and other 1st floor ... I say it again they're a weird mob... family communal living I guess you call it and very common here. Anyway had a nice afternoon with them. Frank had brought them both a jar of vegemite...just in case they missed it.. but I suspect the Italian palate would not be able to appreciate the taste of vegemite.
I was so envious - they proudly showed us their "fountain" in the backyard, which was in fact a bore which is pressure fed from surrounding mountains, no need for pumps. It flows continually and is plumbed into the house and is used for all water needs. It certainly is great to drink, like spring water. All houses in the district have this water arrangement..... and therefore they pay niente for water!
Set off in Treviso direction this morning - destination Villa Emo in Fanzola, another country house designed by Palladio with frescoes by Zelotti - presumably with the technique much used in Palladio houses of having the artists paint onto the wet plaster so the painting is incorporated in the wall surface, hence the brightness of the frescoes today.
Anyway these frescoes were all about the agricultural life in a mythological way as this area being flat land was a big crop growing area (and still is)
Under the loggia of the house, vintage dealers from far and wide had stalls selling all sorts of things, for eg one dealer had 1960's and 70's sunglasses, others had old furs, vintage designer handbags etc. Needless to say Frank couldn't get me out of there fast enough, but I saw enough to workout that old crap in Italy costs more than old crap in Australia!
From there we called on an old school friend of Frank's who lives 10k from Treviso. He was born in Australia and the family moved back to Italy in 1968. In the usual Italian way he (and his family) and his brother and his share the house, one family ground floor and other 1st floor ... I say it again they're a weird mob... family communal living I guess you call it and very common here. Anyway had a nice afternoon with them. Frank had brought them both a jar of vegemite...just in case they missed it.. but I suspect the Italian palate would not be able to appreciate the taste of vegemite.
I was so envious - they proudly showed us their "fountain" in the backyard, which was in fact a bore which is pressure fed from surrounding mountains, no need for pumps. It flows continually and is plumbed into the house and is used for all water needs. It certainly is great to drink, like spring water. All houses in the district have this water arrangement..... and therefore they pay niente for water!
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| Internal shot Villa Emo - bit naughty - Fotografia n. |
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| Villa Emo - another Palladian villa |
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| Marostica- on route- castle on the hill - from the car. Walked from town on a previous trip. |
Sunday, 27 September 2015
Mountaingoat country
Saturday 26th Sep
Last night things were certainly hopping in the Arsiero piazza and our hotel is right on the piazza and seemed to be the focal point of the festivities - well into the wee hours!! Not happy Jan
Early start to Frank's cousin's place for ride up the mountain - 600 metres above sea level - to his cason (casoni are little stone huts up the mountain that in days of yore provided short term shelter when the townfolk worked the land on the hillside - pretty basic, one room with attic for hay) They have been abandoned for the last 50 odd years but now some are restoring for little mountain retreats. Mauro's is about 4 metres by 6 metres and in the past was in use by 3 families. He is repointing the stonework himself to save 65 euros per square metre. He has already reroofed, new upstairs floor, bathroom and it looks very cute. Lots of paperwork and Italian bureaucracy for him to do anything to the cason, even dig a hole. He then has 2 years to complete the work and if he doesn't finish, he has to go through the whole rigmarole again!
Frank and I walked down the track to once again locate his father's cason which was in a poor condition - not one of the lucky one to get the once-over.
Hillside was covered with little pink cyclamen which are naturalised as wild flowers, quite green about that.
We walked back down the mountain track to the car which was parked at the cemetery carpark, great pain in left knee, old age is the pits!
Aunty Isetta's for lunch - I feel a bit guilty a 90 year old cooking us lunch but she had insisted. Any way she and Frank had a good old chinwag about family things. I remember on one visit years ago she was complaining about English words creeping into use in the Italian language. She said when she sees an English word she just ignored it, she wasn't having any of that! Later in the car Frank was driving and we came to STOP sign (which are STOP in English as an EU standard I think) Frank asked (approaching the stop at a steady speed) "What do I do here?" " FERMATA, FERMATA" she cried!
Last night things were certainly hopping in the Arsiero piazza and our hotel is right on the piazza and seemed to be the focal point of the festivities - well into the wee hours!! Not happy Jan
Early start to Frank's cousin's place for ride up the mountain - 600 metres above sea level - to his cason (casoni are little stone huts up the mountain that in days of yore provided short term shelter when the townfolk worked the land on the hillside - pretty basic, one room with attic for hay) They have been abandoned for the last 50 odd years but now some are restoring for little mountain retreats. Mauro's is about 4 metres by 6 metres and in the past was in use by 3 families. He is repointing the stonework himself to save 65 euros per square metre. He has already reroofed, new upstairs floor, bathroom and it looks very cute. Lots of paperwork and Italian bureaucracy for him to do anything to the cason, even dig a hole. He then has 2 years to complete the work and if he doesn't finish, he has to go through the whole rigmarole again!
Frank and I walked down the track to once again locate his father's cason which was in a poor condition - not one of the lucky one to get the once-over.
Hillside was covered with little pink cyclamen which are naturalised as wild flowers, quite green about that.
We walked back down the mountain track to the car which was parked at the cemetery carpark, great pain in left knee, old age is the pits!
Aunty Isetta's for lunch - I feel a bit guilty a 90 year old cooking us lunch but she had insisted. Any way she and Frank had a good old chinwag about family things. I remember on one visit years ago she was complaining about English words creeping into use in the Italian language. She said when she sees an English word she just ignored it, she wasn't having any of that! Later in the car Frank was driving and we came to STOP sign (which are STOP in English as an EU standard I think) Frank asked (approaching the stop at a steady speed) "What do I do here?" " FERMATA, FERMATA" she cried!
So even after a meal at Isetta's at lunch, we fronted up for our meal at Albergo Italia Risorta - hard to resist - the food is good local cuisine designed to help you deal with the cold, ha ha!
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| Frank and Mauro in front of Mauro's little cason up the mountain |
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| Frank's Dad's poor little cason, abandoned for 65 years, once he left for Australia |
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| Naturalised little pink cyclamen, up the mountain |
Saturday, 26 September 2015
Sad day
Friday 25th Sep
We went to Aunty Rosina's funeral today. Turns out her name is Bortola - no wonder she went by the name of Rosina.
She was interred in the family vault, a concrete-lined tomb about 10 foot deep with concrete shelves either side. They have not perfected sliding the new coffin into its designated shelf as the marble top which comes off to facilitate the burial is shorter than the coffin length. I was holding my breath as the coffin was manhandled into position.
Italians do not have wakes so it's on your bike afterwards. We called into see Aunty Isetta who is now the last of that generation of the clan.
We had a date with John at Trattoria Al Buso (yes again) for lunch as she was doing baccala (salt cod) and polenta and he promised it was good. Too much, too much, I told Frank to cancel our dinner at the Arsiero Hotel but he refused to do so! These Buso meals are huge and secondo plate comes with extras (unrequested) such as funghi, fagioli, salad and chips, for crying out loud! Personally Frank and I were not impressed with the baccala - too fishy.
That was our day really. My loose comfortable jeans are now beginning to look like jeggings....such as is VERY common here in bella Italia..and might I say on backsides and legs probably not meant for tight tight tight jeans..... But trust me no-one of any age group wears comfortable jeans here!
We went to Aunty Rosina's funeral today. Turns out her name is Bortola - no wonder she went by the name of Rosina.
She was interred in the family vault, a concrete-lined tomb about 10 foot deep with concrete shelves either side. They have not perfected sliding the new coffin into its designated shelf as the marble top which comes off to facilitate the burial is shorter than the coffin length. I was holding my breath as the coffin was manhandled into position.
Italians do not have wakes so it's on your bike afterwards. We called into see Aunty Isetta who is now the last of that generation of the clan.
We had a date with John at Trattoria Al Buso (yes again) for lunch as she was doing baccala (salt cod) and polenta and he promised it was good. Too much, too much, I told Frank to cancel our dinner at the Arsiero Hotel but he refused to do so! These Buso meals are huge and secondo plate comes with extras (unrequested) such as funghi, fagioli, salad and chips, for crying out loud! Personally Frank and I were not impressed with the baccala - too fishy.
That was our day really. My loose comfortable jeans are now beginning to look like jeggings....such as is VERY common here in bella Italia..and might I say on backsides and legs probably not meant for tight tight tight jeans..... But trust me no-one of any age group wears comfortable jeans here!
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| Trattoria Al Buso |
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| The Italian sauage from last night, split and fried - delicious |
Friday, 25 September 2015
Madonna Della Corona
Thursday 24th Sep
Today off to see the Madonna Della Corona near Verona, and Lake Garda.
The drive there took about 3 hours over the mountains in a westerly direction with frequent stops. One stop we made was Fusine where a chap Frank knows left when he was 15 and has never been back. Frank was to take some pictures of the town and his old house for him. We recognized the house because it was one of those with the corner chamfered to allow for the road. Now this is a dead one-horse town, but when Frank stopped the one person who passed by with his pane, yes he know Danny, one year difference in age! Like most of these little mountain towns most of the houses are empty. Mind you the roads are in very good condition not like Adelaide roads.. not sure where the councils get the money seeing they all say the country is doing it tough.....and we keep being told we are the lucky country! One thing I noticed it that the road workers all still work for the councils, not like us where the costs probably include a massive profit for the private company which gets the contract.
The Madonna Della Corona started as a hollow in the rockface of Monte Baldo in the 1500s and has had a few additions over the years. Very interesting little church with one wall being the rockface. It is believed prior to that Benedictine hermits inhabited the spot. The valley floor is 700 metres below and there is a walking trail up for the pilgrims. I'm not sure how far down from the top of the cliff it is, hard to get a perspective. Thank goodness we drove to the town of Spiazza and walked down (Mind you this entailed the climb back up, around 400 odd steps - call for the paramedics!)
We had a call from John on the way to say that Aunty Rosina had passed away, rosary tonight and funeral tomorrow. To that end we took the autostrada back which took 1 hour ilo 3, but considerably worse for the nerves with the 100s of trucks all trying to pass each other.
We had a quick tea with John at Trattoria Al Buso (in the hole) at Calvene. This is one of his favourite haunts, I think because it is Extremely good value. Three courses with water and wine, 12 euro each! I must say there was nothing wrong with the food at all, just plain local cuisine, we had minestrone, Italian sausages with beans, potatoes and salad, and tiramisu - the latter I suspect was out of the freezer. Cheaper than cooking at home!
Anyway good turnout for the rosary, although very strange sensation to hear the rosary recited in Italian. When I closed my eyes it sounded like a Druids ceremonial chant. I expected to be surrounded by white hooded robes when I opened them again.
Today off to see the Madonna Della Corona near Verona, and Lake Garda.
The drive there took about 3 hours over the mountains in a westerly direction with frequent stops. One stop we made was Fusine where a chap Frank knows left when he was 15 and has never been back. Frank was to take some pictures of the town and his old house for him. We recognized the house because it was one of those with the corner chamfered to allow for the road. Now this is a dead one-horse town, but when Frank stopped the one person who passed by with his pane, yes he know Danny, one year difference in age! Like most of these little mountain towns most of the houses are empty. Mind you the roads are in very good condition not like Adelaide roads.. not sure where the councils get the money seeing they all say the country is doing it tough.....and we keep being told we are the lucky country! One thing I noticed it that the road workers all still work for the councils, not like us where the costs probably include a massive profit for the private company which gets the contract.
The Madonna Della Corona started as a hollow in the rockface of Monte Baldo in the 1500s and has had a few additions over the years. Very interesting little church with one wall being the rockface. It is believed prior to that Benedictine hermits inhabited the spot. The valley floor is 700 metres below and there is a walking trail up for the pilgrims. I'm not sure how far down from the top of the cliff it is, hard to get a perspective. Thank goodness we drove to the town of Spiazza and walked down (Mind you this entailed the climb back up, around 400 odd steps - call for the paramedics!)
We had a call from John on the way to say that Aunty Rosina had passed away, rosary tonight and funeral tomorrow. To that end we took the autostrada back which took 1 hour ilo 3, but considerably worse for the nerves with the 100s of trucks all trying to pass each other.
We had a quick tea with John at Trattoria Al Buso (in the hole) at Calvene. This is one of his favourite haunts, I think because it is Extremely good value. Three courses with water and wine, 12 euro each! I must say there was nothing wrong with the food at all, just plain local cuisine, we had minestrone, Italian sausages with beans, potatoes and salad, and tiramisu - the latter I suspect was out of the freezer. Cheaper than cooking at home!
Anyway good turnout for the rosary, although very strange sensation to hear the rosary recited in Italian. When I closed my eyes it sounded like a Druids ceremonial chant. I expected to be surrounded by white hooded robes when I opened them again.
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| Danny's childhood home, Fusine, house with chamfered corner |
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| Medieval Lime kiln in hills in Alto Adige area, on way to Verona |
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| Castle up a hill on way to Verona |
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| One of the Stations of the Cross on the walk down to Madonna Della Corona |
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| Madonna Della Corona |
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| Internal wall of church is rockface |
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| Looking back along the track from the Church |
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| View to the valley from the church |
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| That's Frank with our car - red numberplate. Lake Garda in the background |
Thursday, 24 September 2015
Palladio and I
Wednesday 23rd Sep
Pouring with rain when we booked out of our Tresche Conca hotel this morning and trip down the mountain along the 10 tornante (hairpin turns in reality) a bit hairy, foggy, heavy rain and Italian drivers allowing for the conditions - not!
Off to Vicenza on a cultural Palladio tour. Frank went along in good humour. First stop La Rotonda on the outskirts of Vicenza. I saw this Palladio villa 10 years ago but I had an impatient husband waiting in the car that time, (yes, the same one) so it was a quick once over. Vicenza, while not the birthplace of Palladio, was where he did most of his work - or at least in the surrounding countryside. Really La Rotonda (1570 or so) is such a gracious building, the symmetry of the 4 facades and the interior decor, while a bit OTT with full size statues in the cornices and frescos on the frescos, I think he gets away with it!
We then did a bit of a walking tour of Palladio sites in the town centre. The centre of Vicenza is yet another chic Italian town, upmarket shops, beautiful buildings, cafes and everyone looking very fashionable. First we saw the Teatro Olimpico (1580 or so) which has trompe-l'oeil stage sets which make it look as though there are long streets going off into the distance, when there is only about 30 feet of depth.
Next stop was the Palladio Museum, also very interesting with the history and the politics of the time.
Then to to Palazzo del Capitaniato yet another Palladio building in the Piazza dei Signori. Cultural overload by then, also completely stuffed, so back to the car and home to hotel in Arsiero.
Dinner- at the usual 7.30pm time as is the Italian way - don't think you can grab an early bite if you want - but mustn't complain as great meal at this new hotel..... previous one average at best. Primo plate spinach and ricotta gnocchi, secondi roast pork - me and fried cheese with polenta - Frank. Also great limoni tart with cherry stuff, yumm.
Pouring with rain when we booked out of our Tresche Conca hotel this morning and trip down the mountain along the 10 tornante (hairpin turns in reality) a bit hairy, foggy, heavy rain and Italian drivers allowing for the conditions - not!
Off to Vicenza on a cultural Palladio tour. Frank went along in good humour. First stop La Rotonda on the outskirts of Vicenza. I saw this Palladio villa 10 years ago but I had an impatient husband waiting in the car that time, (yes, the same one) so it was a quick once over. Vicenza, while not the birthplace of Palladio, was where he did most of his work - or at least in the surrounding countryside. Really La Rotonda (1570 or so) is such a gracious building, the symmetry of the 4 facades and the interior decor, while a bit OTT with full size statues in the cornices and frescos on the frescos, I think he gets away with it!
We then did a bit of a walking tour of Palladio sites in the town centre. The centre of Vicenza is yet another chic Italian town, upmarket shops, beautiful buildings, cafes and everyone looking very fashionable. First we saw the Teatro Olimpico (1580 or so) which has trompe-l'oeil stage sets which make it look as though there are long streets going off into the distance, when there is only about 30 feet of depth.
Next stop was the Palladio Museum, also very interesting with the history and the politics of the time.
Then to to Palazzo del Capitaniato yet another Palladio building in the Piazza dei Signori. Cultural overload by then, also completely stuffed, so back to the car and home to hotel in Arsiero.
Dinner- at the usual 7.30pm time as is the Italian way - don't think you can grab an early bite if you want - but mustn't complain as great meal at this new hotel..... previous one average at best. Primo plate spinach and ricotta gnocchi, secondi roast pork - me and fried cheese with polenta - Frank. Also great limoni tart with cherry stuff, yumm.
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| This is the cafe halfway down the 10 hairpin turns down the mountain where boyracers congregate to watch their mates write themselves off on motorbikes - 1 per month |
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| La Rotondo - Vicenza |
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| From La Rotonda to the front gate |
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| Another Gloria Soame - Villa Valmarana- just down the road. Owned by the same family |
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| Teatro Olimpico Vicenza |
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| And again |
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| And again |
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| Palazzo del Capitaniato Vicenza |
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| Beautiful typical streetscene in Vicenza, |
Wednesday, 23 September 2015
Siesta at Tezze
Tuesday 22nd Sep
Crack of dawn - 9am - to the priest in Caltrano for our appointment. Trouble is he must have forgotten he was saying mass at that time!! Anyway wandered through the Tuesday market in the Piazza keeping an eye out for him and sure enough when I poked my head in the church there he was up the front in his togs! When he finally turned up, no apology, niente. He was however nowhere near as bad as the previous a..hole, he didn't insist on staying in the room while we used the books and only turfed us out after 1pm. Next appointment 9.30 Friday.
Headed up to Camasino to John's to discuss some of the findings and disturb his siesta.
Yes - just on these siestas, don't bother to try to shop, bank, visit places of interest, get petrol etc between about 12 and 2-3 - shutters are down., no business is done. When we drove to Arsiero to book into the original hotel we wanted, Frank saw a pair of shoes he was interested in in the shop next to the hotel and engaged the chap a good 45 minutes into his siesta time. You could see he wanted to make the sale as he was quite friendly (for an Italian) but when deal was done he said he would be in trouble at home for being late for lunch and he locked up poste haste and rode off on his pushbike. But the thing is lots of them don't go home for lunch - maybe too far - but just hang about for 2 or so hours.
Later that day we drove up to Tezze, very cute little town up the hill with houses decorated in arty ways. We planned to have a refreshing beverage in the bar/ pizzeria.... guess what? Closed Tuesdays!
Apparently in the old days there was no road up to Tezze, just a walking track and Frank's mum told the story that when the priest had to go up there to give the last rites, he wore his clogs, carrying his shoes so as not to wear them out.
Crack of dawn - 9am - to the priest in Caltrano for our appointment. Trouble is he must have forgotten he was saying mass at that time!! Anyway wandered through the Tuesday market in the Piazza keeping an eye out for him and sure enough when I poked my head in the church there he was up the front in his togs! When he finally turned up, no apology, niente. He was however nowhere near as bad as the previous a..hole, he didn't insist on staying in the room while we used the books and only turfed us out after 1pm. Next appointment 9.30 Friday.
Headed up to Camasino to John's to discuss some of the findings and disturb his siesta.
Yes - just on these siestas, don't bother to try to shop, bank, visit places of interest, get petrol etc between about 12 and 2-3 - shutters are down., no business is done. When we drove to Arsiero to book into the original hotel we wanted, Frank saw a pair of shoes he was interested in in the shop next to the hotel and engaged the chap a good 45 minutes into his siesta time. You could see he wanted to make the sale as he was quite friendly (for an Italian) but when deal was done he said he would be in trouble at home for being late for lunch and he locked up poste haste and rode off on his pushbike. But the thing is lots of them don't go home for lunch - maybe too far - but just hang about for 2 or so hours.
Later that day we drove up to Tezze, very cute little town up the hill with houses decorated in arty ways. We planned to have a refreshing beverage in the bar/ pizzeria.... guess what? Closed Tuesdays!
Apparently in the old days there was no road up to Tezze, just a walking track and Frank's mum told the story that when the priest had to go up there to give the last rites, he wore his clogs, carrying his shoes so as not to wear them out.
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| Interior of sweet little St Rita's at Tezze |
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| Me in front of St Rita's, Tezze. Looking down the 1 street. |
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| Decoration on house at Tezze, painted rooftiles |
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| Tezze, this chap decorated with his old pot collection |
Ups and downs
Monday 21st Sep
First job today was to see the Caltrano parish priest to tee up time for access to parish registers for Frank's family history research. New priest, so hopefully more cooperative than the last incumbent, who gave access for a couple of hours over a 3 week period....even though he knew we were visiting from Australia...poor show seeing this is the only place information is found. Anyway appointment made for 9am Tuesday.
Off to Lavanderia (laundromat) in Zane - so hard to understand machine instructions, even for Frank who parlez'es the language.
Note about this area, it consists of many different villages in foothills/onto the plains of the Dolomites. Over time they have expanded to be joined or just about. Where they join there are newer houses, supermarkets, shops, factories etc but centre of each is the old town, houses 500 plus years old, tiny narrow streets twisting and turning around the houses. Communal courtyards going off in all directions allow access to several houses. Streets through the old part of town are often 1 car width, in fact some houses have had their corners chamfered to allow passage of cars. From John's little house in Camasino - village adjoining Caltrano- he could probably give the trucks a pat as they pass his kitchen window. He has 1/15th of the carparking space in front of the house.
Next to the hospital to visit Aunty Rosina, 95 and not too good. Surprised to learn that they had given her an endoscopy that morning. Considering that she has been feed artificially for several years hard to understand, anyway doped out. we spoke to the badente (carer)- from Romania who has been looking after her for the last 5 or so years at her son's home. Funny thing she knew we were here as John had alerted her when he saw her in the Piazza.... he's good!
Just on the eastern European carer, apparently she is paid 1100 euro per month - which is double what she would earn back home as an RN - and of course accomodation is included. No wonder they come! Also it appears no locals want to do this type of work, sound familiar?
Next to see cousin Luciana's husband in the same hospital, also not looking good with recurrance of cancer which started in the neck and now is in the liver and other organs. Poor thing, hard to see him so reduced as very exuberant, lively man, played the trumpet in the local Mosson district band. . I remember the first time I met Romano, he was having a very excited discussion - arm-flinging, table-banging etc - with Aunty Isetta's husband Tony. Of course all in Italian so I asked Frank afterward what it was all about... debate was whether the pope lived in the Vatican or had an apartment outside the walls. So funny...I thought it was something serious! Poor Botox (as we always referred to Luciana as she is so young looking) has both her husband and mother in hospital at the same time, both seemingly in a v bad state.
Frank's mother's childhood home, about 600 years old
These arches lead into communal courtyards
Street in the old part of Caltrano, then again it may be Tezze
Off to Lavanderia (laundromat) in Zane - so hard to understand machine instructions, even for Frank who parlez'es the language.
Note about this area, it consists of many different villages in foothills/onto the plains of the Dolomites. Over time they have expanded to be joined or just about. Where they join there are newer houses, supermarkets, shops, factories etc but centre of each is the old town, houses 500 plus years old, tiny narrow streets twisting and turning around the houses. Communal courtyards going off in all directions allow access to several houses. Streets through the old part of town are often 1 car width, in fact some houses have had their corners chamfered to allow passage of cars. From John's little house in Camasino - village adjoining Caltrano- he could probably give the trucks a pat as they pass his kitchen window. He has 1/15th of the carparking space in front of the house.
Next to the hospital to visit Aunty Rosina, 95 and not too good. Surprised to learn that they had given her an endoscopy that morning. Considering that she has been feed artificially for several years hard to understand, anyway doped out. we spoke to the badente (carer)- from Romania who has been looking after her for the last 5 or so years at her son's home. Funny thing she knew we were here as John had alerted her when he saw her in the Piazza.... he's good!
Just on the eastern European carer, apparently she is paid 1100 euro per month - which is double what she would earn back home as an RN - and of course accomodation is included. No wonder they come! Also it appears no locals want to do this type of work, sound familiar?
Next to see cousin Luciana's husband in the same hospital, also not looking good with recurrance of cancer which started in the neck and now is in the liver and other organs. Poor thing, hard to see him so reduced as very exuberant, lively man, played the trumpet in the local Mosson district band. . I remember the first time I met Romano, he was having a very excited discussion - arm-flinging, table-banging etc - with Aunty Isetta's husband Tony. Of course all in Italian so I asked Frank afterward what it was all about... debate was whether the pope lived in the Vatican or had an apartment outside the walls. So funny...I thought it was something serious! Poor Botox (as we always referred to Luciana as she is so young looking) has both her husband and mother in hospital at the same time, both seemingly in a v bad state.
Tuesday, 22 September 2015
Malga Festa
Sunday 21st Sep
Today off to the Malga festa. Malgas are like communal dairies / pastures which originated back in old days when people on the plains and foothills brought their cows up to the altopiano for the summer pasture. They are in forest land on the altopiano which was bequeathed to the Commune di Caltrano for the use of the people, so as you drive through the beautiful tall timber forest you come across clearings of pasture and the dairy buildings. Originally the malga keeper would milk the cows, make cheese, feed the whey to the pigs and make salami and the cow owner would get a share. Now sounds like someone gets a contract to run the malga and it's like a little cheese/salami making factory.
This open day one could stroll, run, ride or drive around to various malgas and taste their wares. We ended up walkng to the closest - after waiting for John and then having to have cappuccino and macafame (a local cake made from stale bread, apples, dried fruit, spices and grappa - ok but Frank's mum's was better) and then chat, chat, chat - old home week, most of the people in the district have a relative in Adelaide, have lived in Adelaide and then come back or are relatives and John knows them all! Even Frank met his cousin's wife sister.
Finally had lunch at Bar Alpino, nice fettuccine with venison ragu.
After festivities down to the home town to visit 90 year old Aunty Isetta. Frank and she conversed in Italian while I tried to stay awake... wine at lunch not a good idea. Also if I taped her talking it would be a cure for my insomnia.... not nice, but true.
View from our hotel room Tresche Conca
View to one of the Malga - not a long walk for us!
Feed time at the Malga - like an antipasto plate
Bar Alpino, where we had lunch
Monday, 21 September 2015
The Stelvio Pass
Saturday 20th Sep
This morning left Tirano for a Sunday (well Saturday) drive to the Stevlio Pass, about 60k. Road winds up with 5 million hairpins, narrow, (but at least there are guard rails...minus the ones missing/bent which the reckless have hit) Well every man and his dog were doing the Stelvio - pushbikes, motorbikes, car clubs etc. We stopped for a photo at a lookout and chatted to 4 guys in their 50s from Sydney, none overweight, who had hired their bikes in the town down the hill, Bormio (and their matching lycra) and were riding up ... and down the other side - another 48 hairpins - and then back again. Well for crying out loud... what a way to enjoy a holiday!
Up the top at the Pass, it was like Bourke St, chockas with cars and people and stalls trying to flog stuff.
One side is meant to be better scenery but both pretty amazing vistas, not least being the road itself from vantage points along. Coming down things a bit fraught due to approaches to blind corners, mostly 1 car width, so you have to try to peer around the corner, crikey!
Bottom line I don't think it could be the Top Gear rubberlaying experience unless the road was closed to other traffic.
After driving up /down (not sure) the valley passing Bolzano (Iceman)and Trento finally arrived our Caltrano destination to find our chosen hotel closed for 3 days. So up the hill to Tresche Conca on the alto piano and found ok accomodation at Albergo Col Del Sole (bit inconguous as this is a sking areas, quite unlike the Costa del Sol, plus decor heavily influenced by hunting lodge, ie taxidermied foxes and stag antlers)
Lucky break for us that we settled on Tresche Conca ilo our usual hotel in Cesuna further up, as we learnt later that the other hotel in town has been booked out by the government for 30 refugees. We did wonder why there were 3 very dark dudes loitering in the grass opposite the hotel when we passed there the next day.
Anyway settled in and back down the hill 10 tornante to meet friend John at the piazza and up to one of his haunts for a very welcome, welcome drink. John also visiting from SA and appears to really relish the Italian lifestyle - La Dolce Vita.
Upward (possibly Swiss side) to Stelvio Pass
Tunnels up to Stelvio Pass
Looking back down on approach road from half way up
Dearest & I
Stelvio Pass and road down other side
Self explanatory
Shops at Stelvio Pass
Road down other side
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